Monthly Archives: February 2014

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Getting started with BMX Bikes – What you need to know before beginning

The adrenaline rush of BMX or bicycle motocross began in the 1970s when teenagers began racing their squishy bikes on dirt track around southern California, trying to emulate their motocross stars and idols such as Lars Larrson, Preston Petty and Mike Goodwin.

The biggest inspiration came in 1972 with the screening of the cult documentary “On Any Sunday”, which showed kids riding their sting ray bikes of road, in its opening scene. Soon after companies started developing designs and manufacturing bikes specifically for off-roading and use on dirt tracks. With economic success, the sport of BMX was born.

Fast forward 30 or so years. Gone are the days of frisbees tied with a string, acting as knee protectors. In a world of high-end BMX gear, bikes that cost upward of $2000, hundreds of BMX events all over the globe and thousands of customizable bike parts, shoes, clothing, accessories, safety gear – it has become hard to see the forest from all the trees.

What started so simple has become a major subset of the $7.3 billion bicycling industry, so let me make it simple for you and tell you about the differences and what you might or might not need, helping you choose the right bike and BMX gear.

Frame

Try and go with Chrome Moly instead of aluminum. Both are common steels in racing. BMX “dudes” usually go with Chrome Moly because it’s stronger and not as stiff a ride. Aluminum is half the weight of steel but only 1/3 the strength. Going to your local shop you might discover that frames from both aluminum and Chrome Moly (or cromoly, cromo, CrMo) weigh the same. This indicates that the aluminum tubing has a thicker outer layer to seemingly match the strength of Chrome Moly, but don’t get flunked – it’s still not as strong as Chrome Moly.

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Aluminum has a limited life and eventually will corrode and give up on you. Chrome Moly, on the other hand, will never die on you if you don’t let it rust in your basement while you make yourself the third PB&J sandwich.

Brakes

Whether you ride with brakes or not is 100% up to you and your style. It’s a question of opinion. Keep in mind that brakes will make your bike marginally heavier which might influence your tricking. It is widely considerate obsolete BMX gear

Pedals

Go with plastic. It’s cheap and it doesn’t hurt as much as steel when you eventually ram it into your body. Getting a big one jammed into your shin, trying to impress your friends and the cute girl, 15 minutes after arriving to your skate park is NOT what you want to happen to you, trust me. It hurts bad.

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All you need to know about Bike Pedals and Cleats.

To appreciate mountain-biking in the best way possible, you’ll want to buy some mtb footwear. Regardless of ones biking expertise, an appropriate pair of shoes will assist you to bike safely, far more adequately, and competently. SPD are a normal design of pedal for mtb shoes, but you’ll discover that this footwear works extremely well with standard pedals and toe clips too.

Mountain Bikes originally did not have SPD pedals, making it quite challenging to remove their feet quickly out of the toe-clips should they need to. This was incredibly dangerous, considering that the biker was, at times required to fall together with the mountain bike in the event of a crash. When SPD pedals were developed, mountain biking become much safer.. Cyclists have the ability to rotate their foot and pull it free from the pedal, or when there is adequate pressure, the cycle shoe and bike pedal will disassemble while not having to rotate the feet.

For those who cycle recreationally but have a bike that doesn’t have SPD (Shimano Pedaling Dynamics), then you’ll definitely have to purchase some mtb shoes that will work with clipless pedals nonetheless. The only thing you will be required to do is hold the cover together while attaching the cleats. This gives you the possibility of using clipless pedals in the future if you want to. If you own clipless pedals, then make sure that your specialty bike shoes are compatible your pedals.

Be careful that your shoes don’t have shoelaces that could end up becoming tangled up in the chain, also allow more space in the shoes for swollen feet, and, more important than anything else, they must be comfy to wear. If you want to put more power in your pedaling technique, then should purchase MTB shoes having a firmer sole. If you’re going to be on your feet and walking a lot with your biking shoes, you should opt for a more flexible shoe-sole. You might be unsure which MTB footwear meets your needs, then go to evolution cycles and we’ll be happy to help.

In the cycling business, you’ll discover that specific manufacturers specialise in certain areas and not in others. Manufacturers of other types of sporting goods, often producde a range of different sporting merchandise, yet cycle manufacturers generally focus and concentrate on a particular division of cycling. They always try to produce the highest quality version possible of that specific product. One example of this is Endura. They are well-known for their cycling clothing for both men and women.

With all of the different kinds of cycling that you can do, you will find that there are also different kinds of bikes for each of these. A cross-country bike will be differently designed than a mountain bike, for example. Given all the different cycling styles available, you’ll notice that there are a all sorts of different bikes available for each different style. For example, mountain bikes are completely different to a cross country bicycle. The same is true for cycle gear and clothing, Endura makes a range of cycle clothing, including aerodynamically designed clothes and loose-fit shorts and jerseys for the casual cyclist. If you’re someone who bails alot when cycling, then try loose-fitting clothes to add extra cushioning when you hit the ground.

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How To Fix A Bike Tyre – Replacing or Repairing the Tube

It’s an inevitability that at some point while you’re happily riding along your bike tyres will spring a leak or have a full on blow out. Many mountain bikers say if you’ve never experienced either of these you’re not doing it right. As long as you’re properly prepared it’s not something that you need to live in fear of.

Hopefully, if the puncture is small enough, you can simply repair theĀ inner tube, but in some cases the tear is too big to repair. In those cases you’ll need to replace the tube entirely. This is why it’s so important to always carry at least two extra tubes with you when you go on a ride. Here’s an additional tip: Test inflate your back ups before you take them with you to ensure that they don’t have any defects. The last thing you want is to think you’re prepared for a blow out only to discover that you’re back up won’t work.

Aside from extra tubes there are a few small pieces of equipment that you’ll need to repair or replace your bike tyres.

  • Multi-tool – A multi-tool will be important for getting your bike tyres off.
  • Tyre Lever – Please take the extra effort to buy a tire lever, which helps you remove the tube, and don’t use a stick or other improvised tool for getting the tyre off the rim. If you do, you risk scratching the rim of your bike or further damaging the inner tube.
  • Repair Kit – These will usually contain sanding paper, patches and glue (if the patches are glue-less)
  • Replacement Tubes – Carry two with you when you ride at all times.
  • Portable Bike Pump – You won’t be able to get far in your repairs without one of these.

Repairing or Replacing a Bike Tyre Tube

First, you’ll want to release the extra air left in the tube. Simply, press the inner valve in until the tyre is completely deflated. After you’ve done this you need to remove the tube. Use your tyre lever to gently pop out the tyre. Be careful not to puncture the tube with the lever. The goal is to gingerly insert the lever inside the rim between the tyre and the tube. Once the lever is in place you simply drag it along the rim. This will push the tyre outside the rim and allow you to slip it off the wheel. Gently remove the tube and set it aside. Try to keep it lined up in the same direction of the tyre. This will help you find the puncture should you find the damaging source in the tyre.

Now you’ll want to check for the source of the damage. Very carefully run your fingers along the inside portion of the tire feeling for anything sharp. Use a gentle touch to avoid accidentally stabbing your finger. If you find the source remove it and realign the tube with the tyre. This will help you find the puncture in the tube. If it’s small enough you can follow the directions on a patch kit to repair the tube.

If the damage is too much you’ll have to replace the tube. Make sure there’s nothing left in the tire that would damage your new tube. Once you’ve done this partially inflate the tube to give it a general shape. Insert the tube into the tyre, make sure that it is fully covered and inside the tyre. Then, locate the valve hole in the rim, and start pushing the tyre back under the rim. It should be fairly easy until the last portion of the tyre. You may need to use your tyre lever here to push it fully in.

Inflate the tire. Tip: Pinch your fingers along the length of the tyre to ensure that the tube isn’t caught beneath the rim at any point.

If you are prepared, getting a puncture or a blow out doesn’t have to ruin your ride. Just follow these simple steps and get back on the saddle.

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